It's a sunny day in mid-May and Kevin Walsh is standing on a corner of City Island, surrounded by 30 people
with tote bags and cameras. Walsh is about to embark on his latest "Forgotten New York"
tour, an occasional outing in which he leads trips to lesser-visited aspects
of the city. Before he even has a chance to speak, they're clicking away, anxious to
get everything they can on film. After all, City Island, which lies off the east coast
of the Bronx, is picturesque enough to pass for a New England fishing village.
But despite their multiple cameras and slightly befuddled faces, these aren't tourists,
at least not the just-off-the-bus-from-Toledo type. They're New Yorkers, fans of
Walsh's Forgotten New York, one
of the best websites for New York history. And they've come to watch Walsh, who
researches, writes and designs the site, in action.
In a field with no shortage of hobbyists and cranks, Walsh stands out as both an
authority and an innovator. There are lots of sites devoted to New York's trains,
neighborhoods and even
broken
doorknobs, but Forgotten New York is the only one to bring it all together,
with pages on everything from Manhattan's last primeval forest (in Inwood Hill Park)
to the evolution of street names in Astoria. Walsh, 44, who makes a living as a
copywriter for Macy's, adds a page to the site about every other week. More than a blog,
the entries are thoroughly researched and referenced, with period and contemporary
photographs and maps.
Born and raised in Brooklyn, Walsh is stocky and goateed, with a thick Long Island
brogue and the attitude that usually comes with it. "There are several places I wanna
see, and you're coming along," he tells the group.
At the same time, Walsh defies many of the New York stereotypes. He's often quiet and
introspective. As Sharon Seitz, co-author of "The Other Islands of New York
City," said, "he's not loud about [his work]. He's not really very talkative." And
Seitz praised Walsh for defying another New York stereotype: While many tour guides
are in it for the money, Walsh is driven solely by his "love for the city and its many
layers of history."
True to form, Walsh's tours, which he gives for free once every few months, are less
of the "follow the leader" than the "come explore with me" school. Walsh says that he
has only a few regulars on his tours, but most of the participants are budding urban
geography experts themselves, and the City Island tour group was abuzz with the
shoptalk of urban arcana. A Forgotten tour may be one the few settings where you can
hear people heatedly debating the best intersections in Brooklyn, or the merits of
different makes of subway cars. As the tour meandered across City Island Avenue, one
teenage boy in the group pointed at a Victorian-era house and said, "check out the
honeycomb roof shingles."
Walsh is far from alone in leading amateur tours. Seitz, who with her husband Stuart
Miller recently wrote the third edition of the "Blue Guide New York," said she
has noticed an increased interest in the New York outside of Manhattan in recent years,
something she attributed to the general upswing in the city's economy over the last
10 years. "I look in the Times on Fridays, and every week there seems to be
more of these walking tours."
Indeed, the Forgotten tours are only one of many offered in the New York region.
There areoutings on everything from factories in Queens to abandoned mental
hospitals in Connecticut, and they range from individual projects like Walsh's to
institutions like the Brooklyn Center for the Urban
Environment. Many of the people on the City Island tour, in fact, have aspirations
of conducting their own urban adventures one middle-aged man talks of plans to
circumambulate Brooklyn.
Walsh, though, is not satisfied with his amateur status. While he has no training in
archival research or history (he has a bachelor's in sociology from St. Francis College), he
said in an interview that he'd like to make a career of his historical work his ideas
include a book and a series of "Forgotten" programs in cities across the country.
But his ultimate goal is something a bit higher still: to change the way New York sees
itself, its history and its environment. Like Jane Jacobs, the Greenwich Village
intellectual who championed street-corner shops and sidewalk life in the 1960s, Walsh
sees a New York City again intent on development at the expense of its present and
past. "Any preservationist momentum in NYC has always come from the grassroots," he
said. "New York City, in its official capacity, has always been about tearing down
the old stuff and putting up newer, taller, better 'new' stuff. Look at Times Square..."
For Walsh, the not-so-hidden agenda behind Forgotten New York and the Forgotten tours
is to promote a different kind of tourism, one that values the city not for its looming
landmarks but for everything else. "I can't tell you how frustrating it is for me to
pick up typical New York City guidebooks and see 200 pages on the usual suspects in
Manhattan, and 25 pages on the 'other' four boroughs," he said. "Or pick up New York
Magazine and see how the world revolves around a small coterie of rich twits in midtown
Manhattan. Then I go to Maspeth, Inwood or Stapleton or Brighton Beach and photograph
the real New York City and the buildings, ads or other structures from decades past;
these, and the people that made them and the people that reside next to them, are the
real New York."
Walsh grew up in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, about as "real New York" as one can get. He said
he remembers as a child going on bus trips with his mother and being fascinated
with the intricate streetlights that graced the major streets. "I would make up my own
lamppost miniatures using a pencil, spoon and flashlight bulb," he said. "I would dig
in the dirt, smoothing out the ground to make my own roads." During the 1960s, though,
these were replaced by ugly, utilitarian upgrades, with only a few "forgotten" poles
dotting the cityscape (Indeed, lamppost "necrology," as Walsh calls it, plays a major
part in the Forgotten web site.)
Walsh also grew up in close proximity to the Verrazano Bridge or, at the time, the
lengthy preparations to build what would become the world's highest suspension bridge
(that's him at the top of the page, in 1963).
"I watched them build the thing," he said. "Anyone watching the bridge being built
can't have helped but be influenced in some way."
Though he's since moved to Queens, Walsh has kept in touch with his childhood fervor
for the unseen parts of the city. The Forgotten website is packed with information,
clearly organized but overwhelming all the same. Neal DeMause, the editor of Here Magazine and a frequent
Forgotten tour participant, compares his work to that of such New York academic
historians as Luc Sante, whose 1992 book "Low Life" delved into the lesser-known,
less glamorous aspects of lower Manhattan's past. "I think [Walsh] has done an
incredible job of digging up fascinating stuff, the New York history that doesn't get
featured on PBS specials," Demause said.
Walsh first began researching and taking pictures for Forgotten in 1998, but he said
he waited until he had a few dozen pages worth of material before launching the site,
which went live in March 1999. Walsh has kept up a fairly regular updating schedule,
with new material coming either from tours or his own research, which often comes from
long walks in the far corners of southeast Brooklyn or North Bronx. One recent entry
focused on an abandoned farmhouse on Staten Island, another on an obscure rail
junction.
Since the launch, Walsh has garnered a sizable cult following, and his site is a sort
of "all roads lead to" destination for the New York urban-exploration set. It's been
mentioned in Salon, as well as many of the local papers. Fast
becoming an authority on an aspect of New York most residents never think about but,
when prodded, find infinitely intriguing, Walsh may soon see his exposure grow wider
still. The next few years will see the debate over lower Manhattan reconstruction go
into overdrive, while the Bloomberg administration tries to negotiate serious budget
cuts while making desperately needed renovations to the city's infrastructure. Both
will force a widespread discussion about the meaning of New York culture, and integral
to that is the meaning of the city's past. Is it only the big buildings and notable
landmarks, or is it also the period streetlamps and hundred-year-old signposts?
Mayor Bloomberg, so far, gets mixed marks from Walsh. Discussing the mayor's decision
to renege on moving the Museum of the City of New York to the renovated Tweed
Courthouse, he said, "I was disappointed to hear of Bloomberg's cancellation of the
deal because it reveals his mindset. He believed that such a large space would be a
waste of money if it were used as a museum and the public allowed to enter. So, he
would rather fill it with his beloved cubicles and run the Board of Ed, or whatever
succeeds it, from the Tweed."
Whether Walsh actually will be the next Jane Jacobs remains to be seen; for now, he
keeps plugging at Forgotten New York, building an ever larger base of New York history.
He says he has been in contact with publishers about a book project. "My goal is to
become known," he says, "as NYC's foremost amateur historian." But, true to form, he
quickly amends himself, adding, "I feel that now, even though Forgotten has been
mentioned favorably in all of New York City's daily and weekly publications, I'm still a
schmuck with a website. Until I am published, I can't call myself legitimate."
Clay Risen can be reached at risenc@yahoo.com.